Young supperclub star and Dock Kitchen chef Stevie Parle is taking the lead at this Dalston Italian backed by Jonathan Downey (Milk & Honey, The Player etc). Bright patterned wallpaper and an Artex-clad ceiling are the restaurant equivalent of vintage dress, while its polished finish gives off a more grown-up feel than many of the area’s eateries. Locally cured hams and nibbles such as succulent deep-fried pig’s head open the show, ahead of reconfigured pasta staples. Classic mains also show some creative touches –witness a rich, moist roast chicken stuffed with ricotta and herbs sitting on a piece of toast that has been roasted under the bird and absorbed its luscious juices. The extensive, largely Italian wine list is curated by Ruth Spivey from indie chain Wine Car Boot. In short, this is honest-to-goodness neighbourhood dining at a decent price, and exactly what the area needs.
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