Cockney sparrows and diamond geezers working Petticoat Lane barrows have a cool new cocktail joint in what was once the basement stockroom to the eponymous ‘schmutter’. Thirty people is a squeeze in this raffish cellar, where a kicking Wigan Casino Northern Soul soundtrack accompanies the action and punters come to slug craft beers or sip wine, old-skool cocktails and contemporary classics built on premium gins, malt whiskies, rarefied rums and mezcal – the base for a piña fumada that also has velvet falernum, pineapple and lemon in the mix. Neal’s Yard cheese platters and charcuterie boards are planned, otherwise it’s all about the ‘bevvies’ at this bespoke bunker – so put on your best Paul Smith whistle and dive in. Just beware the perilously low beams if you want to avoid an undignified knockout.
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