29 July 2014

Dirty Bones

20 Kensington Church Street, London W8 4EP

£20.00 North American Kensington
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  • Wine: £19.00
  • Champagne: £60.00
  • Opening Hours: Tues-Sun 6pm-12M (Sun -11pm) Hot dog stand 12N-3PM

Square Meal Review of Dirty Bones ?

In an age when every starry-eyed start-up is bidding to elevate fast food into an art form, news of a former Fat Duck chef heading up a hot-dog joint is enough to raise a few eyebrows. But aside from opening one of the coolest joints on High Street Ken, the team at Dirty Bones has masterfully navigated the slippery path between junk-food purveyors and culinary know-it-alls. A retro-eclectic interior mixes parquet floors, patterned tiles and ‘60s light shades in a grungy low-lit basement that provides the perfect setting for lashings of meat and bourbon. Our 21-day aged burger dog with homemade beer cheese was the star of the show, but everything else was faultlessly decadent– from a pulled pork Mexican dog, right down to the smoky secret sauce. No bookings, but a swinging bar and bourbon-based cocktails mean the wait flies by.

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  1. Published : Thursday, 1st May 2014

    Gingle lists everything :: Dirty Bones, 24th April

    Firstly, I've got to commend the soundtrack in Dirty Bones - a mixture of soulful old school funk, and sultry modern R n B. Everyone I was with thought the music was excellent and completely matched the 70s retro lounge feel of the place.So, good impressions from the start and happily the food also lived up to these.I'd actually already had a Dirty Bones hot dog from when they launched and were giving away dogs for free, so I knew, in essence, that I already liked their hot dogs. But those were just the classic yankees - some ketchup, mustard and spring onion. I wanted to try some of the speciality hot dogs, and found it very hard to choose between the Mexican (topped with pulled pork, cactus salsa, lime sour cream and guacamole) and the Asian (topped with wasabi mayo, seaweed, sesame seeds and kimchi). As much as I love Mexican flavours, I thought the Asian one sounded unlike any other hot dog I'd tried so I wanted to see if it would work. A couple of people had the Brit Dog (treacle bacon, mature beer cheddar and curried gherkins) while one person did have the Mexican, and someone had the Frenchie (chives, celeriac remoulade, crispy shallots and roast garlic puree) but on a veggie dog.We enquired about the 'Dirty fries' and found out they were their regular triple cooked fries but topped with cheese and jalapenos and onions. They sounded amazing but with my Asian dog I though it might be a bit much. As it happens, these dirty fries are done in quite an understated way and I wouldn't have felt like a right pig if I'd ordered them as well. I satisfied myself with regular fries as well.While we waited for the food, we all had a cocktail each. I couldn't resist having something whiskey-based and had the Big Apple - JD, lillet rouge, peychaud bitters, and it came with a warm slice of toffee apple on the top which was absolutely delicious! Quite a lot of people took a risk and ordered the highly alcoholic sounding Deputy Dog (a lot of the cocktails are dog-themed) which had tequila in it, plus solerno and fresh mint, making it quite similar to a mojito. But it was also topped up with Ting and was a long drink, rather than a short one so wasn't quite as potent as everyone thought it might be. Our hot dogs shortly arrived and I liked the look of mine straight away. Eatig it was even better. My hot dog had a good girth to it, even if it was a little 'short'. I would say it still stings a little to be paying £8.50 for a hot dog, but the price is comparable to other places, and if I were to directly compare it to, say Bubbledogs, I would say I liked this place a lot better. The hot dogs available are more interesting, bigger, and, well, better!I loved my Asian dog - all the flavours added up to a delicious bite every time, and still retained the hot dog taste underneath, not overpowering it. The crunchy seaweed on top was worth ordering this one alone, and the wasabi was at a perfect level for me - like English mustard, I can't handle too much.Everyone else was full of praise for their hot dogs, and the girl who ordered the veggie version was loudest among them. I think she was genuinely surprised to find herself liking a hot dog so much, not having been much of a fan of them before, and she said more than once how impressed she was. The fries were great, nice and crunchy. I must say though, that even though I'm sure they were triple fried, does it really need to be mentioned on the menu? They're really good fries but by highlighting that they're triple fried it almost gives me expectations way beyond what I'm actually getting. We left after we ate because, even though we liked the place, there's no denying it's pricey. Cans of beer (yes, cans' not bottles) were £5.00 and although wine looked priced normally, I suspect that was for small measures (they didn't specify on the menu). Even then we might have stayed but it was the day before pay day.So, everyone liked the place. Which was a relief. I've got myself a bit of a reputation for knowing the 'cool' places to go and keeping on top of the Zeitgeist and this was the first place we had all been on my recommendation. So thanks Dirty Bones, for keeping my rep' intact!
    More from Gingle lists everything »

  2. Dirty Bones appears to be yet another ‘Deep South’ American venue which has sprung up in London. However, unlike many of its brethren, this one isn’t located in deepest darkest ‘Hipster-ville’. Instead, it occupies a discrete little spot in amongst the estate agents and boutiques of Kensington. So can ‘Dirty Bones’ bring a love of everything smoked and meaty to the well heeled residents of West London? Hot Dog Counter by day... underground restaurant by night Hot Dog Counter by day… underground restaurant by night Dirty Bones is unashamedly targeting the trend for good’ol American food which has been sweeping across London for the past year or so...
    More from @wilkes888 - London based Food & Drink-o-phile »

  3. Yes, we know, London has burgers and hot dogs coming out of its ears, the trend is threatening to become a little tiresome. Dirty Bones sounds like just another dude food restaurant, nothing new, nothing exciting but it really is much more than that. The name doesn’t help, we have Dirty Burger, Dirty Martini, Lazy Bones, FISHBone, Bone Daddies… Is it all about bones and dirt at the moment? Dirty Bones is at risk of getting lost within all of these places and not standing out, which would be a great shame. Dirty Bones offers something a little more refined, the group creative development chef Ross Clarke from The Fat Duck Experimental Kitchen devised the menu. It is he who helped devise recipes for Heston‘s shows and books. In fact, I liked it so much that I did a first for our blog and actually returned twice in a week. This was mostly because Ade missed out on the first visit and was pretty angry when I told him my findings, plus we found ourselves in the area a week later and it seemed rude not to. An interesting finding of visiting twice, once as an invitation and once just as regular punters was the service. On both trips the staff were great and friendly, they definitely have their eye on the ball...
    More from We Love Food, It »

  4. There’s a lot of filth-focussed nomenclature when it comes to casual-dining eateries these days. We’ve already got Dirty Burger in Kentish Town and Vauxhall, not to be confused with Big Dirty Burger popping up around London. It’s a fitting adjective to describe the sort of food you expect to get around your mouth as much as in it, eaten without cutlery, and always great with alcohol. To this list we can now add Dirty Bones - the new Kensington cocktail and dining hotspot for subterranean gourmet dude-food, where the light is low and the beats are brash...
    More from The Cutlery Chronicles »

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