The unstoppable creative spirit of Korean hairdresser, entrepreneur and restaurateur Ki Lee has seen these two arches under the railway tracks at Cambridge Heath transformed from café-cum-antique shop to Korean eatery-cum-hair salon. The tightly packed space serves coffee and nibbles during the day, but in the evening it’s an endearingly scruffy bistro, frequented by a friendly crowd of young locals attracted by cheap eats and BYO booze. Everything on the short, basic menu is prepared in a weeny open kitchen by a pair of well-coiffed chefs (one assumes they get discount): start with crisp fried mandu (potsticker dumplings) and jeon (Korean pancakes), then crank up the spice for fiery pork and kimchi stew or an earthenware pot of bibimbap with beef, egg yolk and potent gochuchang paste. Hair appointments optional.
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