For their follow-up to Michelin-starred Dabbous, chef Ollie Dabbous and drinks maestro Oskar Kinberg have created something completely different: instead of a fine-dining clone, Barnyard is a casual, no-bookings joint with a menu of reasonably priced dude food. Dishes arrive on enamel plates, often with a ramekin of something to give textural contrast: a glossy sausage roll with palate-sharpening piccalilli; a blackened short rib of beef alongside a spear of gherkin and some mustard and black-treacle sauce, say. It’s all about direct flavours and comfort. Sides are fun, pud might bring a Mr Whippy-style popcorn ice cream with a jug of smoked fudge sauce, and the drinks list includes frothy milkshakes (‘hard’ and ‘soft’) served in retro milk bottles. Elsewhere, Barnyard ticks all the in-vogue boxes, with its reclaimed timber furnishings, corrugated tin walls, toe-tapping indie/folk soundtrack and staff who look very much like the people they are serving.
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