The Ergon chain is famous throughout Greece for its branded products and capacious deli-restaurants, all headed up by national hero Dimitris Skarmoutsos. Now the celeb chef is bidding to replicate its popularity with a London offshoot near Oxford Street. The split-level space is a Mecca for anyone after Hellenic produce, with shelves of provisions arrayed in the basement deli and a kitchen that takes these exceptional ingredients to a higher level. Top shouts in the industrial-chic dining room have included sublime, thinly sliced squid in a dark, rich squid-ink tzatziki, and wedges of oat-rolled, deep-fried Gruyère with a green salad involving pomegranate seeds and orange – although homemade gyros (a mound of slow-cooked pork atop pitta bread) shows that the kitchen can cook taverna food too. Everything is delivered with Hermes-like speed by T-shirted waiters who also know how to mix a mean cocktail.
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