The Grade II-listed Victorian building that formerly housed Indian star Zaika has been taken over by the group behind Michelin-starred Tamarind and transformed into a suave all-day destination for dining, socialising and entertaining. The kitchen is headed up by international high-flyer Massimiliano Blasone (previously of Apsleys at The Lanesborough), whose contemporary European food majors on clever use of textures and creative presentation. Silky slices of venison are served on creamy artichoke purée with crunchy mustard-seed sauce and crispy fried salsify, while a meltingly rich dish of ‘soft eggs’ features layers of amaranth and parmesan cream topped with prosciutto powder. To follow, our classic beef entrecôte with intense black pepper sauce was well executed, and there was plenty to cheer about when it came to a stylishly deconstructed Black Forest dessert. An elevated Champagne table, ‘restorative’ cocktails, keenly priced wines and friendly, polished service are further pluses.
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