22 August 2014

The Prince of Wales

467-469 Brixton Road, London SW9 8HH

Bars , International Brixton, Streatham Hill
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  • Wine: £17.50
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12N-12M (Fri-Sat -3am)

Square Meal Review of The Prince of Wales ?

Known to all as the POW, Brixton’s most famous boozer has been dramatically recast as a late-night bar, restaurant and entertainment space, with event rooms and tiered roof gardens – no wonder it’s being billed as a ‘licensed powerhouse’. Dating from 1936, the current building once hosted the likes of Chuck Berry and The Who, and became a hotbed of political radicalism during the 80s – as well as attracting stars such as Diana Dors. Much of the gilded interior has been retained (including the stunning art-deco staircase), while striking mirrors now display the day’s menu. Expect lots of influences, from salt cod cakes with pea guacamole or oxtail pacchieri with pecorino crumb to pizzas and meaty specialities from the wood-fired oven. As for entertainment, think comedy, salsa, graffiti battles Pongathons, regular DJ sets and more besides.

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  1. Food at the Prince of Wales in Brixton is served in the typical pub style – simply presented, with many familiar-looking carnivorous dishes on the menu, all served in generous portions within walking distance of the beer pumps. Yet, somehow, the Prince of Wales is not a typical gastropub at all. While the staff are friendly and the food is unmistakably wholesome, there is a level of finesse which seems slightly out of place in a South London watering hole. Chef Arno Maasdorp aims to create ‘intelligent comfort food’ – a description which aptly describes the well-constructed menu...
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