Following on from The Wolseley et al, Fischer’s continues Christopher Corbin and Jeremy King’s long-running love affair with Viennese café society – and it certainly looks the Austro-Hungarian part, with a rich brown-and-black palette applied to the leather banquettes, tightly packed bentwood chairs and shiny table tops. The attention to detail is faultless, although one is unlikely to encounter the same carefree atmosphere in buttoned-up Vienna. Messrs Corbin and King have always been keen on sociable, feel-good food – and Fischer’s proves the point with pleasing starters such as white asparagus with Black Forest ham. To follow, our juicy, lightly battered Wiener schnitzel would have been better without a stridently flavoured ligonberry compote, while devilled veal sweetbreads with tartare sauce were spot on. After that, sugary carb-fest puds prove why patisserie is Austria’s gift to the food world. Service is slick, if not exactly warm, but time-pressed diners will appreciate the well-oiled efficiency of the whole set-up.
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