Eastenders who recall Rita’s short-term residency at Birthdays will be pleased to learn that this ‘bar and dining’ outfit has finally found a permanent new home on Mare Street. While the place has grown up, its outlook hasn’t changed: bare white walls and plain wooden tables create a sparse look that’s still pop-up at heart, and the food is as perky as ever. The menu scours the globe for comfort-food classics, with American and South-East Asian influences riding high: sticky chicken wings drenched in a syrupy ginger and soy reduction are finger-lickin’ good, a green-chilli version of mac ‘n’ cheese is embellished with fresh-flavoured guacamole, and a dessert of dulce de leche beignets topped with shaved foie gras is a fittingly bold way to finish. Friendly staff and well-crafted cocktails add to the unfaltering sense of fun.
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