No doubt buoyed by the success of his Peruvian eatery Coya nearby, Arjun Waney has relaunched what was Aurelia as a cheerfully chic, modern Mexican joint. Food-wise, it’s essentially a Latin take on his greatest hit Zuma, with some eye-catching fish dishes to the fore on the small-plates sharing menu – lobster ceviche, salmon and crab tostadas, tuna and yellowtail laminados and suchlike. But it’s not all seafood: pork tacos and chicken quesadillas make savoury diversions ahead of standout mains such as butter-soft lamb cutlets with smoky corn and chipotle mayo on the side. After that, try churros with a hefty cinnamon kick. The clientele is Waney’s well-heeled, well-coiffed target market (hence a global wine list with slim pickings under £40), but they are joined at the small bar by drinks nerds paying homage to an impressive array of Tequila.
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