Big-spending Russian restaurateur Arkady Novikov is cementing his reputation as a serious player on the London scene with Rextail – a subterranean homage to grilled meat and fish. Comfy chairs and an open bar area create a casual vibe that’s driven by a beat-heavy soundtrack, although tuned-in staff (they’ll notice if you drop a napkin) and precisely presented dishes are reminders that this is carefully curated, high-end dining. Hearty servings of specialist meats are the menu’s focal point (a 400g Canadian bison rib-eye is expertly cooked, seared on the outside but medium-rare and tender within), but wood-roast game and simply cooked seafood also vie for diners’ attention – sweet-tasting baked Scottish langoustines with lemon and parsley oil were one of the highlights of our visit. In all, this is a slice of steakhouse-cool made for Mayfair.
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