With this St James’s newcomer, Angela Hartnett has come full circle, returning to the former Pétrus site – where she once worked for Gordon Ramsay – as one of London’s most celebrated chefs. A handsome (if narrow) space, with a marble-topped bar, chocolate leather banquettes behind, wooden floors and golden, flattering lighting, it’s far more relaxed than Hartnett’s Michelin-starred Murano. The cooking follows suit with a northern Italian menu of generous-spirited classics: cicchetti include piping-hot truffle arancini, while starters proper feature whole globe artichoke to dip into a punchy bagna cauda. Freshly made pasta is every bit the highlight one would hope – go for the wild-mushroom gnocchi with parsley and garlic – and follow with crisp chicken Milanese with a simple salad. To drink, there are elegant cocktails and an Italian wine list with smart bottles covering all budgets. Just like the rest of this supremely polished operation, service doesn’t put a foot wrong.
Travel to Café Murano in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.Get a quote »