Angela Hartnett once worked for Gordon Ramsay at this site – when it was the original Pétrus – and now she’s returned to front its latest incarnation. Comprising a handsome (if narrow) space with a marble-topped bar, leather banquettes, wooden floors and golden lighting, it’s a shot in the arm for the neighbourhood and far more relaxed than Hartnett’s Michelin-starred Murano. The cooking follows suit with a northern Italian menu of generous-spirited classics – think piping-hot truffle arancini or whole globe artichoke with punchy bagna cauda for dipping. Fresh pasta is a highlight (try the “sticky, fluffy” wild mushroom gnocchi with parsley and garlic), while mains might bring firm, bouncy hake with black olives and deliciously sweet roasted butternut squash. To drink, elegant cocktails sit alongside an Italian wine list with smart bottles covering all budgets. This is a supremely polished operation with pitch-perfect service, but it’s also fun, relaxed and eminently approachable.
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