After 10 years as head chef at Covent Garden’s Mon Plaisir, Franck Raymond has moved across the river to set up shop just south of Battersea Bridge. The new venture is sure to win as many plaudits as his former establishment – particularly as it deals in the kind of honest, unshowy Gallic cooking that made his name, at prices suited to the neighbourhood location. Unremarkable interiors (white tablecloths, high-backed chairs and specials boards) set the scene for patriotic wines and a refined bourgeois menu served by attentive staff. Shelled snails in a creamy parsley and butter sauce or lobster soup spiked with Armagnac promise gutsy French flavours elevated by touches of finesse, while perfectly roasted cod with quinoa, orange and rosemary sauce is a standout main course. For afters, fluffy chocolate mousse is pure heaven. An instant local gem.
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