This temporary restaurant (running only until April 2014) has good pedigree. Not only in its owner, David Moore, who is behind Michelin one-starred restaurants Pied a Terre and L’autre Pied, but also in its location, the same Marylebone spot which housed Simon Rogan’s Roganic pop-up for two years. The name means ‘barefoot’ and is a nod towards the pared-back, ingredients-led and deliberately simple approach to cooking which is exhibited. As one might guess from dishes such as beef tartare with smoked eel, wasabi, and quail's egg, or 42 degree confit salmon, cauliflower and pink grapefruit, it’s not as simple as it seems. Vegetables and meat are treated with equal care: smoked, slow-cooked, dehydrated, crumbled, poached and left raw to build up intricate dishes that are as texturally exciting as they are packed with flavour. There’s a touch of Noma about the food on offer, but it certainly maintains its own identity, set off superbly by a confidently short selection of mostly natural wines.
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