The site occupied for more than 20 years by Martin Lam’s Ransome’s Dock restaurant has now been transformed into a new all-day venue run by husband and wife Johan and Elsa De Jager, who have worked in venues ranging from Sophie’s Steakhouse to The Square. The slightly stark, white-washed warehouse space kicks off the day with coffee and pastries before the main menu launches at noon and we are able to see the influence of a chef with backgrounds at both Fifteen and River Café in oft-Italian, fresh-faced dishes that put ingredients to the fore. Crab on toast is rich yet dainty, with a lemon aïoli lifting its deep, meaty flavours, while a cheesy artichoke dip is an unctuous treat even if somewhat preposterously lacking in anything to dip into it. A wild boar ragu is more fully formed: bullish in its flavours and an impressive exhibit for perfect pasta with a pleasant bite. That will be the River Café training. A bourbon bread and butter pudding makes for a final indulgent flourish, but as with most of the dishes, is bigger in flavours than it is in size. Source’s cooking is clever, considered and carefully-curated, we’d just like the space to be a little more comfy.
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