Launched with the minimum of media bluster, this homely izakaya has slowly been making its mark on Rupert Street. The small, white-walled dining room couldn’t be simpler – just a kitchen-cum-bar out front, two hefty dark-wood communal tables and bare filament bulbs dangling overhead. So far, so Soho – until the food arrives. Chef/patron Yuya Kikuchi is a master of his craft, and his repertoire of dainty small plates runs from smoky sautéed lotus roots, melt-in-the-mouth aubergine grilled with sweet miso, and juicy nuggets of crisp fried chicken to generously filled dumplings and comforting ramen noodles. Portions are small, but polite staff are happy for diners to order several waves of dishes in their own time, with an admirable drinks list to back it all up.
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