With Ceviche in Soho wowing the crowds, owner Martin Morales has turned to Shoreditch for his next eatery. Comprising a small street-level dining room and roomier downstairs area, the decor is bright and vibrant, with splashes of Peruvian colour. This vibrancy continues on the menu, with a superb starter of sea bass ceviche served alongside a dinky pot of pour-your-own ‘tiger’s milk’ (for that added chilli and lime hit). ‘Res’ (aka beef carpaccio) is equally impressive – ultra-thin slices enlivened with figs and a minty pisco dressing. However, we found the mains underwhelming in the extreme: causas amantani comprised three dense lumps of cold mashed potato with various fishy toppings, chupe (king prawn and black-quinoa chowder) failed to excite, and a dulce de leche dessert was lifeless. Nevertheless, a lively juice bar, authentic South American breakfasts and a ‘games room’ filled with rare tunes from Morales’ own record label should keep Andina busy.
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