If The White Rabbit is anything to go by, hipster dining is moving away from street vans and into venues like this – a convivial room with an open kitchen, exposed steel girders and faux animal skins thrown over concrete banquette seating. Dalston’s cognoscenti are flocking here for an eclectic mixed bag of seasonal dishes served up in three different sizes – from small plates of burrata with fennel pollen and lemon rind, to big helpings of garlicky mussels steamed in white wine. In between, expect anything from spätzle with peas, ricotta, hazelnuts and summer truffle (a standout), to lamb belly with miso baba gannouj, or onglet with horseradish cream and ‘trencher’ bread soaked in the meat’s juices. Service is friendly, and the neatly edited drinks list runs from seven cocktails to a short but well-chosen wine selection.
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