Michelin-starred queen bee Angela Hartnett has teamed up with chef Neil Borthwick (ex-The Square) and the founders of Brit-themed Canteen chain for this new City venture – a slick, ‘cavernous’ space several notches up from your usual tavern. Plush, curved leather banquettes set the tone, but there’s a touch of Shoreditch chic, too, in the form of bare-brick walls and metal pillars. Service is well informed and the food has all the familiar Hartnett hallmarks – carefully sourced seasonal ingredients and Mediterranean flair with a dash of British comfort. Quail with hazelnuts and foie gras ‘hits the mark’, mallard comes with mustard greens and sarladaise potatoes, and ‘bright white’ roast brill is partnered by coco beans, anchovies and bread sauce. Incredibly rich hogget broth is a standout seasonal opener, and desserts are pure indulgence (think sticky rum baba with caramelised apple). ‘Another winner for Angela’, especially with snacks and interesting tipples at the bar.
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