Marianne Lumb’s CV lists stints at Le Gavroche and The River Café, plus a top-three appearance on MasterChef: The Professionals and a successful career cooking for the rich and famous. Her latest project is this bijou eatery – a lesson in understated elegance, complete with parquet flooring, green eggshell walls and just five smartly dressed tables. Matching the intimate supperclub mood is a pithy fixed-priced menu of seasonal, sophisticated dishes – witness a pitch-perfect starter of scallops on a zingy purée of Breton artichokes with pata negra ham. Elsewhere, char-grilled Wagyu beef fillet lets the meat do the talking and shepherd’s pie is given a contemporary spin, while desserts such as blackberry tarte Tatin finish things off nicely. Given that prices start at £48 for three courses, the food could be more daring, but with expert attention all the way, everyone feels cosseted.
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