For his latest hit, Jason Atherton’s unstoppable gastronomic bandwagon has rolled into Berners Street, this time in partnership with boutique hotel guru Ian Schrager. The resulting venue is big, bold and well-groomed – a decadent baroque ballroom with ornately moulded ceilings, epic chandeliers, wall-to-wall framed paintings, a booming big-city soundtrack and female staff in white tuxedos. ‘You can feel the energy and finery’, notes one fan. In the kitchen, Atherton’s deputy Phil Carmichael delivers the sophisticated culinary goods on cue – from subtly balanced scallop carpaccio with avocado, radish, jalapeño and lime ice, or Creedy Carver duck breast with richly flavoured braised leg, caramel apple and turnips, to a seasonal surprise involving goats’ cheese sorbet with blackberries and zingy yuzu. Flexibility is the theme, with an all-day menu touting everything from breakfast fry-ups and lunchtime sandwiches to Sunday roasts. Needless to say, it’s up to Atherton’s usual high standard, so ‘dust off those glad rags and join London’s most exciting gastronomic party’.
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