Banging the cucina povera drum in Exmouth Market, Paesan has all the now-familiar accoutrements made famous by the likes of Polpo (think bare brick walls, filament light bulbs and a small-plates menu), although the array of wall-mounted boars’ heads has to be a first. Drinkers can head downstairs to the low-lit basement bar for vintage cocktails and homemade limoncello, while hungry types should move on up to the main dining room, where it’s possible to graze happily on antipasti and ‘piccolo’ – little sharing plates, ranging from deliciously creamy courgette and lemon arancini to rich dollops of burrata with aubergine caponata. Alternatively, go for something bigger – perhaps lamb with comforting fagioli beans, a thin-crust ‘pizza fritta’, or a generous bowl of char-grilled prawns with creamy horseradish dip. Keen prices and breezy service help to bolster Paesan’s fun-loving vibe.
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