Chefs Alan Christie and Colin Kelly, plus manager Tom Slegg, have defected from multi-gonged Arbutus and Wild Honey to open their own neighbourly gaff – a stylishly stark space with a blindingly bright atrium, grey-washed walls, retro furnishings and wire-framed lights. The kitchen majors on ‘visibly fresh’, globally inspired sharing plates notable for their arty presentation and ‘really cool’ ideas: sole ceviche with cucumber and sea lettuce; ravioli of Italian greens, ricotta and fennel; crisp Lebanese chicken with yoghurt, sumac and pomegranate; and a show-stopping slow-poached egg with mushroom marmalade. Desserts also come up trumps – the chocolate mousse with cherries and honeycomb is ‘to die for’. Staff are genuinely welcoming, keen and helpful, everything on the wine list is available by the glass, and the £15 three-course lunch is ‘almost too good to be believed’. The only bugbears are high decibels allied to ‘terrible acoustics’.
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