Just a 15-second stroll from Peckham’s lurid Afro-Caribbean weave and nail bars, food stalls and phone unlocking shops, this understated café, wine bar and bistro could be in Chelsea – the SW3 or Manhattan versions. Functional seating at high tables accommodates cool locals who have more in common with their MP Harriet Harman than, say, homeboy rapper Hollowman – glasses of chilled Beaujolais, Alsace Riesling and Breton cider are served with food that reminds the assembled company why they aspire to live the French dream in an idyllic maison de maître. Order snails in garlic butter, Bayonne ham with celeriac rémoulade, duck confit with black figs and chicory or melting bavette with pickled walnuts and horseradish, followed by prunes in Armagnac and an eye-opening café serré. There are bar snacks too – from radishes with butter and salt to pissaladière.
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