Broadly speaking, drinks at this film-noir speakeasy above Jason Atherton's Social Eating House walk the walk – despite some occasional shakiness should you decide to stray off-menu. The name is a slang term for speakeasy, and the wood-panelled saloon with its butch copper-topped bar and old-skool styling is low-key, sophisticated and handsome enough in its own way. Ooh-arr-tinez – a Somerset cider brandy take on a Martinez – is better by far than its daft name, ditto dill or no deal (a Tanqueray gin sour). To eat, dip into jars of cod brandade, spiced aubergine and pork rillettes or nibble on duck-fat chips with aïoli, followed by a deconstructed lemon curd pie with sour yoghurt and fennel.
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