The mighty spud gets to play a starring role at this enterprising amalgam of a greengrocer’s, farm shop and all-day eatery. Sacks and boxes packed with heritage varieties such as Highland Burgundy Red and Shetland Black line up alongside the King Edwards, while punters in the down-home rustic dining room can plough through a menu loaded with tuberous possibilities. Naturally there’s potato soup to start (or you could try black-pudding croquettes), and there are around 10 variations on the theme to go with the likes of lamb stew, duck confit or red gurnard with saffron sauce: dauphinoise, beef-dripping chips, patatas bravas… take your pick. Spuds also sneak into the desserts: bread-and-butter pud is gilded with the stuff and it’s also the basis for sweet brownies and lemon drizzle cake. To drink, Biddenden cider and English wines are top of the bill.
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