Secreted at the back of his no-bookings Fitzrovia firecracker Bubbledogs (but a world away in terms of gastronomy), the Kitchen Table is a showcase for chef/proprietor James Knappett’s take on high-end contemporary cooking – a style that bears all the hallmarks of his time at star-spangled Noma and Per Se. The tasting menu (£78) changes each day, and lucky dinners who have reserved berths at the 19-seat stainless steel bar can look forward to lots of surprises as James and his team talk everyone through the evening’s offerings – perhaps chicken skin with grilled onion and burrata milk, beef with dead nettle and carrots or a sweet combo of hay, strawberry, malt and sweet cicely. To match the food, co-owner and sommelier Sandia Chang (ex-Roganic) has compiled a list of over 100 bins – primarily lesser-known names from small producers. Remember: booking essential.
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