DUE TO CLOSE FOR REFURBISHMENT LATE 2014
The short-lived St John Hotel has resurfaced in a different guise, with chef Tom Harris staying on as a partner alongside the venue’s new Asian backers. Together they have added some much-needed warmth to the dining room, while Harris has overhauled his ‘inventive, offbeat’ menu to suit the new-look premises. Underdog British ingredients still rule the roost (smoked cod roe with devilled pig skin, anyone?), and the kitchen delivers precise seasonal dishes ranging from cuttlefish with cannellini beans and mint or an expert pairing of caramelised onions and goats’ curd to lamb’s sweetbreads with trotter and carrots. By contrast, fancy presentation is a feature of desserts, such as an arty ‘crumbling’ assemblage of salt caramel, apple and hazelnut. The wine list goes that extra mile, prices remain accessible, and spirited service chimes with the happy, confident mood.
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