Lodged within the lavishly refurbished Great Northern Hotel, Plum + Spilt Milk takes its name from the distinctive colours of the first-class dining cars once pulled by The Flying Scotsman. It’s a ‘yesteryear venue’ with a heritage name and ‘quixotic decor’, but the kitchen delivers ‘confidently egalitarian’ British food courtesy of former Gordon Ramsay deputy and man of Kent Mark Sargeant. Starters of Folkestone whelks, potted shrimps or ‘thrillingly creamy’ smoked-haddock soufflé strike a seaside pose, while mains bring perfectly seasoned steak tartare, wholesome lamb-shank hotpot and various items from the high-tech grill (ginormous loin of pork with spiced apple chutney or deboned ‘Jacob’s ladder’ beef ribs, say). For afters, baked Alaska and Kentish gypsy tart are good shouts. The adjoining bar sports a mega drinks list, while ‘sassy, clued-up service’ chimes well with the classy interiors.
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