By kitting out a seldom-used function room above Amuse Bouche Champagne bar with a few vintage tables, framed posters and a calendar-friendly menu, chef Claude Compton has pulled something special out of the bag with the minimum of fuss. The bijou, stripped-wood room keeps things intimate but buzzy – although Compton’s cooking is the real show-stealer. Given his background at Petersham Nurseries Café in Richmond, it’s no surprise that he enjoys playing with inventive flavours – from a verdant dish of asparagus, pickled artichokes, lovage and watercress to flame-licked buttermilk chicken with grilled leeks and heirloom tomatoes. However, the kitchen saves its best till last: frozen choc lollipops in chilli-spiked almond milk with a burnt meringue is worth the trip alone. Superb wines, good value and sweet service earn bonus points.
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