This new-generation Italian feels refreshingly assertive, youthful and upmarket with its blend of slick surrounds (warm hues, bleached pine, dangling hams) and Venetian-style cicchetti snacks. Chirpy staff are quick to offer smart suggestions from the rather convoluted menu: good calls range from plates of Umbrian wild-boar salami to pizzetta with robiola cheese, speck and wild mushrooms, while the buffalo-ricotta ravioli with decadent hits of black truffle should banish any thoughts of mamma’s cooking. Sadly, puds can hit a sour note, so stick with the zingy homemade sorbets. The bar offers Prosecco on tap as well as classic Italian cocktails, but don’t miss the special Tozi spritz. A central communal table ticks the box for big parties (‘tozi’ is Venetian slang for ‘a group of friends’).
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