Occupying the site of a former toilet block near Tower Bridge, whizz kid Tom Sellers’ fiercely ambitious debut is out to impress. The interior references Bermondsey’s heritage (Delft tiles, leather detailing) and it feels surprisingly homely, while the food reflects Sellers’ time in the kitchen at Noma and other starry venues. Although Story’s ‘bookish’ theme can seem a touch precious, Sellers throws down the gauntlet with an inventive 10-course menu full of wit, nostalgia and gastronomic wizardry. A stunning opening salvo involving a molten beef-dripping ‘candle’ sets the scene for a cavalcade of ‘unforgettable’ moments: an ultra-rich purée of heritage potato with asparagus, barley greens and inky-black ‘coal’ sauce; an English-style ceviche of scallops floating ‘like lily pads’ in a pool of green sauce; butter-soft beef cheek with stout and cauliflower yeast, and an amusing final chapter inspired by Goldilocks’ bowls of porridge (complete with a ‘three bears’ drawing). The high-concept cooking won’t be to everyone’s taste, but for fashion-forward foodies, Story is ‘a fantastic addition to the taster-menu scene’.
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