This ‘fun' gastro-complex from Russian restaurant guru Arkady Novikov is often ‘rammed to the hilt' with Eurotrash and new-money oligarchs, many of whom graduate to the swanky Asian Restaurant. However, the venue also includes an Italian eatery done out in more subdued style with oak-framed mirrors, chandeliers and handmade tiles – plus an imposing wood-fired oven. Chef Carmelo Carnivale has moved on to launch Ballaro, but the kitchen still deals in upmarket trattoria food, including a host of antipasti – from vitello tonnata to sea bass carpaccio, After that, order pasta (tagliolini with pecorino or trofie with wild rabbit ragù) or trade up to mains such as calf’s liver with butter and sage. Although it doesn’t have the clout of its Asian-themed neighbour, this is a fair shout if you’re looking for an off-radar Italian in Mayfair.
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