Following on from Brett Graham’s Harwood Arms, Hibiscus hero Claude Bosi has become the second big-name chef to pitch his dressed-up version of a gastropub in SW6. Many of the building’s standout Victorian features remain, but much of the interior has been classily overhauled – the wood panelling, Farrow & Ball tones and William Morris wallpaper all show impeccable taste. The food is similarly impressive, with ex-Hibiscus chef Marcus McGuinness conjuring up a perfect balance of fresh and sometimes surprising flavours – witness a starter of salted bream tartare with lovage. Elsewhere, there’s sophisticated comfort in the shape of slow-cooked veal shin with a richly spiced cherry sauce, while malted vanilla ice cream with salted caramel provides a simple, satisfying finale. A well-pitched international wine list and eager, helpful staff provide the final flourishes for this sure-fire Fulham winner.
Claude Bosi’s second pub world venture (with his brother and partner Cedric) provides a clean, interesting and suitably concise wine list that is tight and easy to follow. Fans of the New World (indeed, anywhere bar France) will feel short-changed, but the wines are still interesting and fairly priced.
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