A ‘truly enchanting’ slice of la vieille France, Otto’s serves up ‘proper fancy French food with belly-busting tendencies’, overlaid with a generous helping of charmingly affectionate kitsch – think Marilyn Monroe cushions and Greek sculptures. Effervescent owner Otto Albert Tepasse holds court, roaming the bijou dining room and cheerily offering personal suggestions from the menu. Step back in time for piquant, hand-chopped beef tartare, langoustines with choucroute, poached Bresse chicken ‘demi deuil’ (with truffle slices layered beneath the skin) and, above all, the legendary canard à la presse (pressed duck) – a sizzling 19th-century speciality that involves extracting the juices from the carcass with a shiny silver press (book two weeks ahead for this treat). Luscious desserts such as quivering chocolate soufflé are straight out of Larousse Gastronomique, and the wine list is Otto’s personal tribute to French oenology.
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