With one eye on the locals and the other on foodie progressives, Andrew Wong cooks regional dishes like a man who was weaned in the kitchen. Occupying what was his parents’ restaurant, Kym’s, this reincarnation comes with an open-plan minimalist interior involving plate-glass windows, shiny copper lighting and polished floors. ‘Reasonably priced’ lunchtime dim sum show some innovative twists, from shrimp har gau with bubbly citrus and yuzu foam to sui mai topped with a tiny sliver of puffed pork crackling. The open kitchen delivers straight high-street classics, too, plus more esoteric delicacies including five-spice smoked cod cheeks or razor clams with sea cucumber, wind-dried sausage and soy butter. The food is expertly rendered and artily presented on platters of wood, stone and porcelain – although meagre portions can leave punters craving more. Service is brisk and thoroughly charming.
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