This new recruit to London’s ramen scene is run by the kooky Japan Centre over the road, and ups the authenticity with a chef recruited from Hakata – the district of Fukuoka synonymous with these soupy bowls of wheat noodles. Sixteen varieties are on offer, all spins on the basic theme of a rich, meaty broth festooned with pork, egg, beansprouts, nori and more besides; it’s warming, nourishing stuff, if a little bland – opt for the garlic-heavy ‘Dracula’ version for the biggest wallop of flavour. Side orders of pork dumplings and soft-shell crab are decent enough, prices are reasonable in the extreme, and the drinks list touts everything from saké and shochu to peppy cocktails and curious green-tea creations. There are queues at busy times and a drum is banged as you’re taken to your table, but no pressure once you’ve finished.
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