Clockjack Oven

The romance of the rotisserie

One of my favourite restaurant memories is that of a tiny little place in Paris called L'AOC. It's partly because I had a wonderfully romantic night there, with the most beautiful girl in the world, but mainly because you just can't compete with roasted meat.

The big selling point of atmospheric, soulful old L'AOC is their rotisserie. Enormous spits of chicken and pork, co-mingled juices dripping and covering lascivious slices of porous potato, thickly cut with rosemary and garlic, gently roasting in the meaty aftermath. After witnessing, and tasting, that you have to wonder how the Parisiens remain so thin (and also wonder who would ever want to eat a simple side salad again).

So imagine how delighted I was to hear that a rotisserie chicken restaurant had opened in Soho, on the site of the sadly missed New Piccadilly Cafe none the less. It must have been the easiest sell for finance in recent restaurant history. Let's just take every single restaurant trend and jam it into one. Chicken with more pedigree than a Crufts winner, a single item menu, no reservations and dude food you're encouraged to manhandle? It's all there. There are definitely eyes on a bigger prize here. Their parent company is called Clockjack Investments and they pre-emptively talk about ‘their first restaurant’, like they're going to be so busy rolling out new locations they may forget to update the website.

The place itself defines warehouse chic. Smooth wooden sharing tables with concrete walls and the odd flash of London Underground inspired tiling. If they don't make the rent in here, it's the work of minutes to pull out the large rotisserie unit behind the counter and slam in a branch of AllSaints instead. The bench seating is a little ungainly, though it's nice to watch the ebb and flow of Soho through the large windows to the front. Sadly, the large windows on the rotisseries mean you only get the occasional whiff of the slow cooking meat as it pirouettes around the heat. A parsimonious tease rather than tantalisation.

And the chicken? It's good. Really good. As good as you'd hope a free range chicken from a small farming co-operative in Brittany would taste. And for £19 a bird (with no sides), it bloody should be. Despite being nearly double the price of Nandos, an obvious target for comparison, that's not actually as much as it sounds, and it's a good sized beast that feeds two easily with a couple of plates of additional sides. Sadly none that we had were that memorable, but I wasn't complaining. We had a couple of pots of differing dips to spice up the meat though it didn't really need anything much, dense and fully flavoured with a sticky dark skin, it really was a good bird.

So does it compare to L'AOC? Sadly not. I have to withdraw my earlier statement. Shockingly it's not all about the rotisserie. The chicken might be good, but there's just no soul here. It's beyond fine for a quick lunch, but it's not somewhere I'd choose to linger long with the most beautiful girl in the world.

Although I'd read about this place, I hadn't really focussed on where it was so it was pure chance that we happened upon it when we were looking for somewhere cheap and cheerful to eat in (we actually turned up expecting to see the Indian restaurant that had been there for 25 years that this replaced!). We received a very warm and friendly welcome but, because it was virtually empty, were immediately faced with the difficult dilemma of where to sit! We chose to sit at the bar and a very good choice it turned out to be. We could chat to the staff and watch the food being prepared and sit enthralled watching the chickens rotating.

We chose to share a whole chicken (five pieces each) which was about the same price as each of ordeing four peices – a no brainer. We were given the full complement of house sauces, all of which were excellent (bar-b-q particularly outstanding). Also great chips.

We didn't try any of the side dishes for fear of not being able to manage them but we could certainly have sorted some of them. Everything was beautifully presented and most enjoyable. Exactly what the doctor ordered!

I resisted a dessert but will definitely return for the chocolate truffles and ice cream, which sound dangerously good.

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and will definitely be back.