Feeding the capital’s current appetite for deluxe chicken, Clockjack Oven offers a clutch of simple, honestly priced dishes that are an easy fit with Soho’s young crowd. Free-range Breton chooks form the backbone of this slick operation, which has all the makings of a quality mini-chain. Tuck into rotisserie-grilled birds, cooked to plump perfection with a well-seasoned carapace of crisp skin, try distractingly moreish ‘bites’ with a crunchy coating and buttermilk-soaked meat or order a generously filled CLT. Mains are backed by sprightly salads and sides, while desserts feature decadent Purbeck ice cream. Perch at the counter and watch your dinner pirouetting in the vertical ‘clockjack’ ovens, or sit at high tables in the cosy dining room – an understated mix of light wood, neutral slate, white subway tiles and accents of red from the occasional candelabra. Service is warm, gregarious and pleasingly personal.
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