At a time when central London pubs are in decline, it’s refreshing to witness Nicholson’s commitment to maintaining (and improving) a venerable tradition at this Mayfair tavern named after the Duke of Clarence. What was an old drinking den has been spruced-up and re-launched as the first in the chain’s planned roll-out of ‘new-look’ (heritage) pubs featuring a range of hand-pulled UK ales and seasonal kegs. Good shouts include Windsor & Eton’s Knight of the Garter, Thornbridge Jaipur and Chocolate Orange Delight from the Downton Brewery; otherwise, order ciders, boutique-distilled gin and a selection of Old and New World wines including a Hampshire sparkler from Jenkyn Place. The menu in the upstairs dining room includes fish and chips, beef Wellington and other trad favourites, while nods to foodie pub trends include a chorizo and wild boar burger.
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