Piccadilly’s regeneration is well and truly under way – as evidenced by this shiny new branch of the San Carlo chain, which delivers casual but effortlessly elegant all-day dining with great panache. Behind the shop-like frontage runs a modern, Venetian-style marbled bar that overlooks the dining area, while an open kitchen and wood-burning oven at the back add some fun and theatre to proceedings. It’s all attractively done, with warm bright lights and contemporary leather chairs, buffed by polished and naturally hospitable Italian service and a cheery crowd. Small-ish plates (mainly in the £6-9 range), tout classy regional favourites such as pappardelle with Tuscan porcini, ravioli filled with truffle and pecorino, first-rate rack of lamb and excellent grilled cod with a pesto crust and lentils. In short, this place is slick, stylish and bang on-the-money.
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