With Tower Bridge, the Thames and the Tower of London on its doorstep, this all-purpose venue enjoys the sort of classic views that launched a thousand picture postcards. The building itself is a plain-deal pavilion of admirable modesty, complete with a sought-after terrace for sightseeing; inside, expect lots of hand-crafted features, from earthenware beer jugs to banqueting-style tables – perhaps referencing the eponymous reveller from Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. The food is contemporary British with cosmopolitan touches, from saffron linguine with Cornish crab or a ‘perfectly soft’ poached egg on rocket with pickled mushrooms to salt-marsh lamb three ways, a ‘sumptuous’ herb risotto with Rosary goats’ cheese or doughnuts with jammy sauce. Twin bars dispense punch bowls, vintage cocktails and nicely balanced wines, alongside resolutely local ales from the Kernel and Meantime breweries. Service blows hot and cold.
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