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22 August 2014
(menu)

Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS

£44.00 Fish Bloomsbury, Fitzrovia

Overall Diner Rating

 

Based on 10 ratings. Rate it!

  • Wine: £18.00
  • Champagne: £48.00
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12N-3pm 6-10pm

Square Meal Review of Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack ?

It’s more Bloomsbury than Brighton beach, but this cute take on a seaside shack does its best to play the part with kitsch nautical trappings and a determinedly maritime approach to things. The kitchen swims with the seasonal currents, bringing in Venus clams, queenie scallops, oysters, ‘wonderfully messy’ whole crabs and a raft of ‘creditably cooked’ dishes ranging from Cornish hake with spiced couscous to ‘damn near perfect’ battered haddock with beef-dripping chips, mushy peas and ‘batter bits’ if you want them (you will!). Service is friendly and unhurried, as staff and customers ‘contort like circus performers’ while navigating their way through the tiny, cluttered room – although the mood is invariably buzzy and relaxed. Prices are on the heavy side, but drinkers are well served with beers from Camden Brewery, as well as a short, well-chosen wine list.

Click here to read our diners’ reviews, or write your own
 
  1. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Richard E.

    mmmmmm - batter bits

      Platinum Reviewer  (129)
    1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
    Editor's pick

     
    • Food & Drink: 9
    • Service: 6
    • Atmosphere: 7
    • Value: 9

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  2. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Michael B.
        (4)

     
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 9
    • Atmosphere: 8
    • Value: 8

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  3. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Hubert N.

    Terrible service & tiny menu

        (1)
    0 of 1 people found this review helpful.

     
    • Food & Drink: 1
    • Service: 1
    • Atmosphere: 1
    • Value: 1

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  4. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    BoatLady

    Unique, for now.

      Platinum Reviewer  (157)
    1 of 1 people found this review helpful.
    Editor's pick

     
    • Food & Drink: 7
    • Service: 7
    • Atmosphere: 8
    • Value: 7

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  5. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Mimina

    Loved the seafood at this Shack

        (7)
    Editor's pick

     
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 6
    • Atmosphere: 8
    • Value: 7

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  6. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Matt P.
        (32)

     
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 5
    • Atmosphere: 5
    • Value: 7

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  7. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Patrick R.

    Creative, charming, but a bit overpriced

        (1)
    0 of 1 people found this review helpful.

     
    • Food & Drink: 7
    • Service: 8
    • Atmosphere: 5
    • Value: 3

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  8. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Michelle C.
        (1)
    0 of 1 people found this review helpful.
    Editor's pick

     
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 9
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 9

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  9. Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

    21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
    Overall rating:
     
    Douglas G.
        (1)
    1 of 2 people found this review helpful.

     
    • Food & Drink: 6
    • Service: 5
    • Atmosphere: 4
    • Value: 5

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  1. Published : Thursday, 22nd August 2013

    The Celeriac :: Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack, Fitzrovia

    Londoners have been stuffing themselves so full of dirty burgers and greasy American nonsense lately that they’ve almost forgotten about the Great British Seaside. Bonnie Gull are putting that right, setting up shop in a fully themed beach shack in Fitzrovia. There’s bleached wood, a map showing the catch of the day and a treasure chest full of langoustines. What more could you want? It’s the latest in a long line of pop-ups gone permanent. Originally Bonnie Gull was just a seafood street food offering in Hackney...
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  2. Small shiny seafood shack serves salty sustenance It’s fascinating what you’ll find in the back streets of London. Bonnie Gull is a seafood restaurant located on Foley Street, a quiet street located in a slice of city in between the thoroughfares of Oxford Street and Great Portland Street. The place has been done up to resemble a humble seaside shack – all wooden planks with a dash of nautical kitsch lining the walls. Bonnie Gull has replaced Back to Basics, an older seafood restaurant, at the same address but there’s no relation between the two as far as I can tell...
    More from The Picky Glutton »

  3. Published : Wednesday, 14th November 2012

    A Lot of Chop :: Bonnie Gull – Seafood Shack

    Earlier this year I tried ‘herring – three ways’ while staying with friends in Stockholm for midsummer celebrations. It was a revelation. So good I literally and drunkenly made a song and dance about it. So where to take our Swedish aficionado pals in London? A new seafood shack, with head chef Luke Robinson (Fifteen) at the helm, of course. I’d never been to a seafood shack before. To me a seafood shack conjured up images of blue and white checked tablecloths, baskets of food, lobster pliers, bibs and napkins. So, in a corner of Fitzrovia, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. As soon as we walked in we realised that this was far classier than a basket and bib joint. It’s definitely snug, encouragingly busy and feels very British...
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  4. Bonnie Gull started life as a pop-up in 2011, serving up excellent seafood - and a good dose of seaside nostalgia - from a pie 'n' mash shop in Hackney. One year later, and the popular seafood shack has been reborn as a permanent restaurant, newly ensconced in a cosy venue just north of Oxford Street. Despite its reincarnation, Bonnie Gull still feels very much like a seafood shack: with driftwood panelling,  blue and white-striped awning, and a muted colour-scheme, it has a distinctly coastal feel (even the barman was dressed in maritime stripes) - a little piece of the British seaside transported to the middle of the city.It was fitting then, that the night of our visit was a wet one: blustery and cold, with rain beating down as we rushed from bus to restaurant, it was definitely reminiscent of childhood holidays by the sea. The restaurant is small - it only seats 26, and even that is a bit of a squeeze - but it felt companionable rather than cramped; the gentle buzz of chatter serving as a pleasant backdrop to our meal. An impressive focus on quality ingredients is very much in evidence: the menu changes daily according to the catch, and the restaurant is closed on Mondays because (as the manager informs me) "Monday is not a good day for sourcing seafood":On the day of our meal, starters range from deep fried Mersea sardines to Isle of Man scallops (with chorizo, lemon puree and spinach), while the main course menu features grey and red mullet, wild sea trout, battered haddock, and plaice. There are even some non-seafood options (the sample menu on the website includes woodland pigeon ballotine and venison steak) - although (vegetarians aside) it would seem a travesty to order anything other than seafood in such a place.In addition to the main menu, Bonnie Gull has an extenstive raw bar selection, serving clams, winkles, whelks, cockles, razor clams and languistines, as well as three types of oysters. My boyfriend overrode my initial squeamishness and ordered us a couple of razor clams. Arriving in their shells, balanced upon a dish of ice, these were excellent - meltingly tender, with a clean 'sea' flavour, they went perfectly with the accompanying 'shack' cocktail sauce.While the starters all looked excellent - I was particularly tempted by smoked rainbow trout with potato pancakes, beetroot and horseradish - we decided to share a main course item as our first course: the whole Devon cock crab, with shack mayo and sourdough sounded too good to miss, but on a night such as this we were both in the mood for something a bit more warming for our main.The crab was large and satisyingly meaty, with plenty of sweet crab flesh waiting to be extracted from the legs and claws piled up in the centre of the wooden serving board. The main shell had been hollowed out and filled with a deliciously rich crab mayonnaise, which we smeared onto the accompanying slice of toasted sourdough and drizzled over our salad. However, a word of warning: while we enjoyed this dish, I would probably not recommend it for people on a first date, as a few 'crab juice in face' incidents did arise from our enthusiastic claw-cracking. Very romantic!For my main course I went for the plaice in caper beurre noisette. This was absolutely exquisite - the incredibly succulent, crispy-skinned plaice fillet lay in a pool of nutty brown butter, scattered with capers and dainty girolle mushrooms... I could easily have eaten it three times over, and have been craving it ever since!My boyfriend opted for the fish soup. While this couldn't quite live up to my ridiculously delicious plaice, it was still very good: bursting with big chunks of salmon and juicy mussels, and threaded with strands of samphire, it was thick and extremely flavourful; perhaps a little too salty, but hearty and filling none the less.However I do think that - given the excellent quality of the seafood here - it may be best to go for the plainer options on the menu: when it's this good, you simply can't beat unadulturated fish. Our neighbours went for the grey and red mullet - the former served alongside Anya potatoes and black olive sauce and the latter with fennel, pickled grapes and Pernod - and both looked stunningly good. (On the other hand, the seaside decor does make the battered haddock and chips a tempting choice!)Along with the exceptional fish, the venue itself has plenty of character - the toilets, labelled 'winkles' and 'clams'*, were a nice touch - and with the charming concept backed up by excellent food, Bonnie Gull looks to be highly succesful: on the night of our visit, there were even some people braving the blustery Autumn night to sit outside! Unlike many of London's trendy new restaurants, Bonnie Gull does take bookings - but with limited space I'm sure their tables will fill up fast, so you had best get in there! I'll certainly be coming back next time I'm in the mood for some fish.*Worringly, it took me more than a few seconds to work out which I was...
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  5. Published : Wednesday, 17th October 2012

    love2feed :: eat: bonnie gull seafood shack

    She says: The pop-up-gone-permanent restaurant is an ever growing reality in London. The team behind Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack, now with a permanent residence in Fitzrovia have tried their hand at numerous projects, from their humble beginnings at Hackney to the more recent ’Bonnie-on-Sky’ summer stint at Platterform in London Bridge. The underlying theme has been simple and consistent throughout – bring the best of British seafood to the bustling heart of London. Step into the restaurant and the design and decor of Bonnie Gull will instantly remind you of the seaside, tables laden with a blue and white checked table cloth and a hand drawn map of the UK scrawled on chalk board, illustrating where the produce has been sourced from. It’s a Tuesday night and I arrive hungry with two of my girl friends Mel & Idelia after a casual peruse at nearby Topshop on Oxford Street, only an 8 min walk away...
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  6. Published : Thursday, 4th October 2012

    Fd Over LDN :: This

    Yet another pop-up to go permanent, this time in the guise of Bonnie Gull, who previously were seen as the Seafood Shack in hackney, and after a couple of projects they are now in this set up in Fitzrovia. All their seafood is British, and responsibly sourced. It will change every day depending on what's fresh, I suppose we'll wait and see if some things will be more regular than others. Reasonably priced, great seafood restaurants are hard to come by in London, but this place certainly fits the bill...
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