It’s more Bloomsbury than Brighton beach, but this cute take on a seaside shack does its best to play the part with kitsch nautical trappings and a determinedly maritime approach to things. The kitchen swims with the seasonal currents, bringing in Venus clams, queenie scallops, oysters, ‘wonderfully messy’ whole crabs and a raft of ‘creditably cooked’ dishes ranging from Cornish hake with spiced couscous to ‘damn near perfect’ battered haddock with beef-dripping chips, mushy peas and ‘batter bits’ if you want them (you will!). Service is friendly and unhurried, as staff and customers ‘contort like circus performers’ while navigating their way through the tiny, cluttered room – although the mood is invariably buzzy and relaxed. Prices are on the heavy side, but drinkers are well served with beers from Camden Brewery, as well as a short, well-chosen wine list.
Travel to Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack in style with London's leading minicab firm Addison Lee.Get a quote »