Reservations for the seven seats at Clerkenwell’s tiny Sushi Tetsu disappear on the day they are released (the first of the month). Snagging a stool at the blond-wood counter in front of ‘Tetsu’ himself (Kobe-trained Toru Takahashi) demands commitment to the redial button, but that’s nothing compared to the effort the chef puts into every plate. The omakase experience can stretch anywhere up to three hours, as he lovingly tends to each piece of sushi and sashimi personally, delicately painting the fish with homemade soy, adding a touch of fresh wasabi root and polishing the bamboo-leaf ‘plate’. There are no hot dishes (not even miso soup); the nearest you’ll get is blowtorched prawns, eel or scallops. Tetsu’s wife takes care of the service with great charm. To drink, there’s a short but effective list of saké, beer and tea.
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