Fans of Berkeley Square’s Novikov will know what to expect from this Knightsbridge sibling: pan-Asian food for a moneyed international crowd is the order of the day. Unlike the original, however, this outlet is emphatically a neighbourhood brasserie – albeit one pitched at locals with unlimited funds. The menu is a familiar line-up of grazing dishes, small plates and main courses from the wok or robata grill: crisp-battered rock shrimp tempura with a creamy chilli mayonnaise; seaweed salad perked up with a punchy sesame and peanut dressing; black-cod rolls encased in a crisp vermicelli-like coating with a mango dipping sauce, and so on. The results are generally enjoyable, although a huge, two-course serving of Peking duck at an eye-watering £45 seemed routinely pedestrian. It has taken a while to get noticed, but this very posh twist on the Wagamama concept is worth a bookmark.
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