Ex-Zuma chef Ross Shonhan has hit upon a winner with this funky, rock’n’roll izakaya –a cheap-eats standout staffed by a bevy of ‘charming enthusiasts’. Japanese posters, rows of multi-coloured saké bottles, communal benches and wooden tables set the mood as AC/DC blares out of the speakers and Soho hipsters set about perusing the snappy menu. Small plates of salmon sashimi with shiso, lime and soy or soft-shell crab in green chilli and ginger sauce are perfect with an ice-cold beer, Asian-style cocktail or a shot of flavoured saké. But this is first and foremost a hip ramen joint, dominated by Shonhan’s intensely savoury, slow-cooked ‘bone broths’ laden with noodles, vegetables, herbs and a gooey soft-boiled egg (the ‘tantanmen’ version with chicken mince is highly recommended). Needless to say, ‘queuing is obligatory’.
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