20 August 2014


Brixton Market, London SW9 8JX

£23.00 North American Brixton, Streatham Hill
  • Wine: £15.50
  • Opening Hours: Tues-Sun 12N-10.30pm (Sun -8.30pm)

Square Meal Review of Chickenliquor ?

Chickenliquor is the brainchild of food writer and chef William Leigh, along with Scott Collins, one of the founders of popular burger joint, Meatliquor. This new emporium aims to feed London's current appetite for all things 'galline' (ie. 'chickeny') going about its business amid the hubbub of Brixton Market, with ‘vertical drinking’ and finger food at ground level and a dining room upstairs. ‘Fried chicken and beer’ is the bottom line, with ‘dirty wings’ and chunks of deep-fried, free-range meat as the solid mainstays, backed by craft brews such as Hobo Beer (a new Czech lager made from Saaz hops), a few ciders and some lively cocktails. Breakfast (chicken, of course) and takeaways are on the menu – space permitting (The kitchen is tiny, by all accounts).

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  1. Chickenliquor

    Brixton Market, London SW9 8JX
    Overall rating:
    Stuart B.

    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10

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  1. Published : Sunday, 3rd August 2014

    Samphire and Salsify :: Chicken Liquor, Brixton

    I loved our visit to Wishbone in Brixton; I’ve had the taste of the Tower Block burger and deep fried mac n cheese etched into my tastebuds ever since. When I heard it had been bought by the guys behind Meat Liquor/Market/Mission and was having a name change to Chicken Liquor (great name), I thought I’d pop down to check it out. It’s based in Brixton Market and on our Sunday lunch visit the place was heaving – there’s such a great atmosphere round there. The restaurant inside looked exactly the same; there’s still those incredibly thin tables (possibly too thin?) opposite the bar, but we were lucky enough to grab a table outside which gave the four of us plenty of room...
    More from Samphire and Salsify »

  2. Published : Sunday, 24th November 2013

    One Girl , One Lifestyle :: One Girl, One Wishbone

    Wishbone sits in the heart of Brixton's private market, vying for that edgy factor along a street of restaurants all wanting to provide that 'cool' feel. The low key lighting, bar stool seating and hip hop music creates an atmosphere that is chilled for a simple menu. There is a choice of wings, thigh bites, burgers and sides. Unsure whether or not nacho cheese sauce on fried chicken would go, the Korean wings were ordered and the Thai thigh bites to continue the Asian flair...
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  3. Published : Tuesday, 2nd April 2013

    Samphire and Salsify :: Wishbone Brixton

    Wishbone is a fried chicken shop which is co-owned by Scott Collins – one of the guys behind Meat Liquor and it subsequently has a similar vibe. Loud music, trendy staff, stool seats and customers with greasy fingers. The restaurant is based in Brixton market which seems to be a culinary hotspot as it’s littered with nice looking places to eat. A return visit to the area is inevitable...
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  4. Published : Monday, 18th March 2013

    Gingle lists everything :: Wishbone, 13th March

    I am used to eating alone and have done so on several occasions but I have never eaten quite as alone as I did the other day at Wishbone.Wanting to avoid the lunchtime crush, I arrived in Brixton a little after half one. Walking past Honest Burgers on my way to Wishbone and seeing the small queue outside, I worried that I had still mistimed it. Worry I need not as when I arrived at Wishbone the place was entirely empty apart from the two members of staff. Not letting this deter me I went in anyway, was greeted by one of the waiters/barmen and took a seat.I hadn't heard great things about Wishbone I must admit, but as Stephen would be happy to tell you, I don't tend to listen much to other people and wanted to try it out for myself. I kind of regretted not being with at least one other person in order to try out a few more of the dishes so I just tried to order a couple of the more 'specialised' dishes. One of their specials today was basically their version of a KFC Tower burger which sounded great but I knew if I got that I wouldn't want have room to try anything else on the menu.So instead I ordered the Thai thighs which came with a tamarind dressing, mint, chilli and shallots and I also ordered the Hot Mess as a side. I had initially thought I'd go for the deep-fried mac n cheese, something so sinful-sounding I wouldn't dare order it in the presence of anyone else, but when my server described the hot mess as "like nachos but with hash browns instead" I was sold.My thighs were 5.50 and my Hot Mess was 4.50. For these prices I thought the portions were excellent and made for sharing. Nevermind, I'd have to do my best on my own.I was still the only one in the place.The thighs came chopped and coated in batter with mint leaves adorning them and sliced chillies and shallots all over the place. I took a bit and my first reaction was "this is great, what is wrong with other people?" The tamarind dressing was sweet, the chicken crunchy and although I felt like I was eating nettles having such large leaves of mint all over the place, the taste was good. Moreish even. But after a few of the nuggets I must admit my enthusiasm for them waned. I realised the chillies weren't doing anything at all. To test this theory I had a couple of forkfuls of them and nothing else (left).They didn't elicit even a sniffle. I also realised that the yummiest bit was the tamarind dressing and that there wasn't anywhere near enough of it. I'd have much preferred it if it had come as a side for a dipping sauce. I tried a little of the hot sauce they provided, to make up for the lack of kick in the chillies, and found this a bit too vinegary and watery for my tastes. Maybe I'm just too used to The Ribman's wonderful Holy Fuck. *nudge, wink*I dug into the Hot Mess and almost instantly disliked it. The same vinegary hot sauce was all over it. I didn't even like the cheese they used. Do you hear that? I didn't. Like. The Cheese! I think it was a mix of some sort of processed orange stuff and some white stuff I couldn't place. Stephen said it sounded like the kind they'd ruined their chips with at Meatliquor. (The major investment in the "Meat" chains is also behind Wishbone.) And the pickles I thought didn't work with it at all - more vinegary sharpness to compound the horrible sharp hot sauce. I tried to dig out some of the plain hash brown to see if I liked that but it was too smothered with everything else to be discerned. I tried to like it, I really did. And certainly ate more forkfuls of it than I really needed to before realising that I was treating eating it like a bit of a chore, and decided to stop.Being the only person in the place (still) the two staff asked me a couple of times how it was and I feel very guilty for being deceitful and supplying them with the stock answer of "oh, yes, very nice". One guy even asked me specifically how I liked the Hot Mess and I was forced to evade the question, answering "There's a lot of it" rather than actually answering the question.Back to the chopped up thighs then, which I did finish though after eating them all, liked even less. At first I was excited that they were made from thighs, dark meat being my favourite part of a chicken. But some of the nuggets were really fatty, a couple of the smaller ones almost all fat, and it made me think wistfully of traditional nuggets made out of white meat (or even pink slime if you believe the facebook rumours. Don't, by the way - they're completely false.).No tamarind dressing left! Just nuggets of fat.lf you liked the food it would be good value for money, as the servings are very generous. My main and side could easily have fed two. And it was only 10 pounds. I handed over my note and left. Apart from two people getting take out, not a soul had come in to eat the whole time I was there.So yeah, not a very successful dining experience. I doubt I'll go back. I had to go and have an ice cream from LabG to make up for it. And that was delicious. Panna Cotta flavour. Mmmm.
    More from Gingle lists everything »

  5. Published : Friday, 4th January 2013

    [FEAST to the world] :: Wishbone, Brixton

    After months of anticipation, the long awaited new chicken wings joint Wishbone has finally open to the wings-loving public, i.e. Me!. What followed were some high praises and accolade gathered on my twitter and instagram feed so you can pretty much guess the excitement in me when I finally managed to drag myself all the way down south of the river, back to Brixton village once again to get a proper tasting of this new much-hype offering...
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  6. A fried chicken shop in the middle of Brixton? Wishbone fried chicken is one hell of a stereotype! It opened to the public on Tuesday following a private launch party on Saturday.
    More from @wilkes888 - London based Food & Drink-o-phile »

Essential Details for Chickenliquor

  • Address: Brixton Market, London SW9 8JX
  • Telephone: 020 7274 0939
  • Website:
  • Opening Hours: Tues-Sun 12N-10.30pm (Sun -8.30pm)

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