If there were any doubts about east London’s claims to culinary credibility, Lardo lays them to rest. ‘Homemade and seasonal’ is where it’s at, and the owners’ home-cured charcuterie, fresh pasta and Italian small plates live up to their promise – think ’nduja arancini, swordfish carpaccio with purslane or broad beans with dandelion and pecorino. But it’s the pizzas from the fat-bellied showpiece oven that are Lardo’s raison d’être: margherita passes the acid test with flying colours, and others such as ham, egg and spinach are also recommended. Even those who grumble about ‘rotten tables’ and ‘too-cool-for-school service’ admit you can expect some ‘really stunning food’, although the homemade ice cream fails to impress. To drink, look for boutique wines and summery Italian aperitifs. When the sun’s shining, head to nearby rooftop barbecue and bar Coppa, owned by the same team.
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