The Bibigo chain’s mission is to commercialise Korean food for the global palate, and its first European venture seems to be doing the business. Branded marinades and sauces line one wall of the smart and accessible dining room, which combines warm wood and traditional prints with Soho-style trappings such as polished concrete and filament bulbs. The menu of heftily priced staples includes traditional bulgogi (char-grilled marinated beef), galbi-jjim (braised short ribs), bo-ssam (succulent pork belly with ginger, spring onions and pine nuts wrapped in lettuce), and bowls of rice-based bibimbap served four ways – although most votes go to the crispy-fried red chicken glazed with sweet, spicy sauce. Keen young staff whisk around with steaming plates of food while chopstick-twirling customers soak up the action and spice. Look out for competitively priced set menus.
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