Grimy Earls Court Road isn’t the most obvious choice for a refined Gallic brasserie, but veteran restaurateur Eric Garnier’s upbeat venue brings a touch of class to this unprepossessing location near the exhibition centre. White tablecloths, mirrors and art-deco lampshades create a mood of timeless Parisian elegance, while the kitchen delivers impeccable French cuisine with gutsy bourgeois flavours – from a fricassee of snails, lardo and garlic on toast with parsley velouté, via mains such as roast pigeon, baby onions and cherry sauce to crêpes Suzette for dessert. Prices aren’t cheap, so those after a bargain should seek out the set lunch – £18 for two courses. Service is ‘cordial’ and the wine list has real depth. All in all, a thoroughly dependable place.
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